Batuan: "The Best" Souring Agent of Ilonggo Cuisine - Know Your Ingredients Series

Batuan fruits. Photos: Flickr/Jep

I can recall my father telling us this bugtong (riddle) when we were younger: "Bugtong-bugtong, an orchard farmer has all manner of fruit trees in his land, but one is the best; can you guess what it is?".  The other person will answer all manner of fruit-bearing trees, but the response will always be "batuan gani" (gani, as it is used in this sentence, is an expression in Hiligaynon to denote exasperation and can be roughly translated to "I already told you". I just realized that the word gani can have different nuances depending on how it is used in a sentence, but that could be another topic in itself). I remember him chuckling heartily as if he had just told the funniest riddle ever in history.

Corny jokes aside, the batuan fruit takes on an almost venerated status in an Ilonggo household, especially for those who are now living in Metro Manila, where it is very rare to get hold of this elusive ingredient. I have used up my baggage allowance by trying to bring frozen batuan fruits in vacuum-seal bags whenever I come back from Iloilo to Manila for a holiday. I have purchased bottles of processed pureed batuan at a premium just to enjoy its distinctive milder sourness (as compared to tamarind, which is the more common souring agent in Metro Manila).

The batuan fruit, scientifically known as Garcinia binucao_in the Clusiaceae family, is a small, greenish-yellow fruit native to the Philippines and nearby regions. It is closely related to the Mangosteen tree. Its distinctive sour flavor has made it a staple souring agent, particularly in Ilonggo cuisine, where it plays a crucial role in lending a sour/tangy depth to various dishes. This fruit, often described as having a sour flavor profile between tamarind and green mango, has found its way into kitchens across the archipelago, each region adapting its use to local traditional recipes.  

A Fruit of Two Genders

An interesting bit of trivia if you want to grow your own batuan tree for the fruit. The batuan tree is dioecious, meaning it has separate male and female trees. For successful fruit production, both a male and a female tree are required for pollination. We have both in our backyard, and we can get sacks full of the fruit in a good year when it is in season.

Cultivation and Propagation

Batuan trees thrive in tropical climates, particularly in the Philippines, where they are commonly found in the Visayas region, especially in Iloilo and Negros Occidental, and also in parts of Mindanao. The trees can be propagated through seeds, cuttings, or grafting.

- Seeds: While possible, growing batuan from seeds can be a lengthy process. It can take several years, typically 5-7 years or more, for a seed-grown tree to bear fruit. And as mentioned previously, you will need both genders for proper pollination.

- Cuttings: This method involves taking cuttings from mature trees and rooting them. Cuttings are a faster method than seeds. This and the next method also remove the guesswork of the gender of the plant being propagated.

- Grafting: Grafting, which involves joining a part of one tree (scion) to another (rootstock), is a common method for propagating fruit trees, including batuan. This method allows for faster fruiting and ensures that the desired characteristics of the parent tree are maintained.  

    

Take note that the batuan seeds are not really that hard to germinate. My father used to sell seedlings to a local garden kiosk in a nearby mall just by transplanting the seeds that had sprouted at the base of the tree at the back of the property. It will take a longer time to bear fruit though, so just bear that in mind.

Culinary Uses Across the Philippines

The batuan’s sourness makes it a versatile ingredient, adding a refreshing mild sourness or tang to a range of dishes.

Ilonggo Cuisine: In Iloilo and Negros Occidental, batuan is indispensable. It is a key ingredient in:

    

    - Kansi: A popular Ilonggo soup similar to bulalo, but with a distinct sourness provided by batuan.

    - Sinigang: The popular Filipino sour broth dish can be cooked with a variety of proteins and can make use of different souring agents depending on the region. Batuan is often used for the Ilonggo versions of this dish.

    - KBL: Stands for Kadios-Baboy-Langka_, this dish is traditionally cooked with batuan to lend it a mild sourness.

    - Pinaksiwan: Although this dish's main source of sourness is typically Tuba vinegar, it sometimes incorporates other souring agents such as kamias or batuan.

    - Pochero: Batuan is used to give the dish a sour twist.

    - In various other stews and soups, where it acts as a souring agent.  

    

Conclusion

The batuan fruit, with its unique sour flavor and essential role in regional cuisines, is a testament to the rich biodiversity of the Philippines. From the bustling kitchens of Iloilo to the diverse culinary landscapes of other regions, batuan continues to add a distinctive tang to Filipino dishes. Understanding its cultivation and diverse applications allows us to appreciate the cultural and culinary significance of this remarkable fruit.