Bangus: The Philippines' (Unofficial) National Fish - Know Your Ingredients Series

The milkfish, scientifically known as Chanos chanos, holds a special place in the heart of every Filipino. Locally called "bangus," it is a silvery-scaled fish with a small mouth and abundant intramuscular bones. Typically sold in local markets at 8 to 12 inches in length, wild bangus can grow much larger. Its presence is not just a staple in the Filipino diet but also a symbol of cultural significance.

Bangus or Milkfish being sold in the market. Photos by Flickr/Jep.

Known by different names across the globe, such as "ikan susu" in Indonesia and Malaysia, and simply milkfish in English, bangus thrives in the Philippines, thanks to the country’s robust aquaculture industry and with the help of technology centers like SEAFDEC/AQD (Southeast Asian Fisheries Development Center Aquaculture Department). Widely raised in fishponds and fish pens, bangus farming has become a livelihood for many. Historically, fingerlings were caught in brackish mangrove areas and sold to fish farmers. However, modern aquaculture now breeds bangus to sustain demand. The adult breeding bangus, locally called sabalo, is protected by local laws, making it unlawful to catch these vital contributors to the species’ propagation.

A fascinating trait of bangus is their innate ability to swim against the current. This behavior is notably observed when separating fingerlings from similar-looking species like the bulgan (seabass or apahap). Even mature bangus display this unique instinct. During high tide, when water is brought into fishponds (locally called pasulang), bangus often crowd near the inlet. Sometimes, they leap out of the water, and skilled hands - or even patient dogs - can catch them in mid-air. 

Memories from Childhood

For many, bangus is more than just a fish—it’s a symbol of nostalgia. I fondly remember summers spent at my lola's uma, balancing on hard-packed clay pathways that serve as the dikes to the fishponds stocked with bangus. I try my best to capture bangi-bangi (fiddler crabs) that scurry back to their burrow at the slightest hint of danger. Before a harvest, my lola would order that the fishpond be drained slightly, just enough for workers to be able to drag a net to herd the fish to one side of the pond. One of my most cherished memories is of wading knee-deep in the water, catching frisky milkfish by hand during harvest with a huge grin on my face. I am sure that this is probably not the traditional way of harvesting milkfish, and she just does it for the benefit of my cousins and me to have a bit of fun. I am glad I was able to experience this unique scenario from my childhood.

A Uniquely Filipino Fish Festival

In Dagupan City, bangus is celebrated with grandeur during the annual Bangus Festival. This month-long event marks the harvest season, bringing communities together to honor the fish that sustains many livelihoods. Events, parades, and culinary competitions showcase the versatility of bangus as both food and cultural heritage.

From Pond/Pen to Plate

Bangus is a common sight in Philippine wet markets, with vendors sometimes offering to debone the fish for a small fee. Its culinary applications vary widely across regions:

• Paksiw na Bangus: A vinegar-forward dish akin to adobo.
• Sinigang na Bangus: A sour broth-based dish using souring agents like tamarind (sampalok), guava (bayabas), tomatoes, and more.
• Bangus Sisig: A creative twist on the traditional pork sisig, using minced bangus in lieu of pork maskara (pig's face).
• Relyenong Bangus: Stuffed milkfish, often filled with minced fish meat, vegetables, and even raisins, a nod to possible Spanish or Mexican culinary influences (chile relleno).
• Grilled Bangus: Charcoal-grilled and paired with soy sauce and calamansi—a Filipino classic.
• Sinardinas na Bangus: A pressure-cooked version with soft bones, served in tomato sauce or oil.
• Tinapang Bangus: Golden smoked brined milkfish. Paired with a sunny side up egg and garlic rice, the perfect breakfast combo.

Tinapang Bangus (Smoked Milkfish). Photos by Flickr/Jep.

Sinigang na Bangus. Photos by Flickr/Jep.

Inihaw na Bangus. Photos by Flickr/Jep.

The milkfish’s significance in the Philippines extends far beyond the dinner table. It bridges generations, represents a thriving industry, and celebrates the Filipino people's resourcefulness. As versatile as it is resilient, the humble bangus truly deserves its honorary title as the national fish of the Philippines (in case it isn't obvious, bangus isn't actually the national fish of the Philippines; we do not have one officially, but it might as well be).